There is something a bike can give you that nothing else in the world can. Make this bike a mountain bike, and the amount of freedom and exploration at your fingertips is almost unprecedented. It was this feeling that drove me to spend the better part of a month crossing the Alps last summer – for the first time, embarking on an adventure of this nature alone. I would start in Munich with my sights set on Milan, aiming to cover as much land and as many high mountain passes as possible.
Arriving in Munich was a wonderful feeling. I only brought what I needed for the adventure, no more, no less. That means I was on the plane in my cycling clothes. My bike came out in a cardboard box that I would later leave behind and I started assembling it right in the terminal. Before I knew it, I was pedaling south along the river towards downtown Munich. The feeling of the first few miles is so invigorating, knowing how many hundreds of hours and countless trials and tribulations lie ahead. The rain gave way to sunshine and I was on my way.
Before the trip, when faced with the question of why go solo, I wouldn't say I really had a good answer. It's just something I've always wanted to try, after countless trips of this nature over the past decade. After about 5 days in Italy, my third country, I had the best day on the bike I've ever had. It was what I was looking for. The feeling of being solely responsible for my pace and route, with every decision resting on my shoulders – I found a new rhythm on the bike that I had never experienced before. I felt like I could cross a 3,000-foot pass with virtually no effort; being rewarded with brand new views over the next valley and an incredible new single track descent on the other side.
The kilometers flew by. I found a rhythm and level of enjoyment on the bike that I had never found before. I would start the next big pass with enthusiasm and seemingly be back on top in no time. This phenomenon was fueled by the perfect abundance of food and water on almost every corner in the Alps. When I was hungry, there always seemed to be an alpine hut or guesthouse, serving a small beer and fresh pasta or pizza. I ate and left quickly. When I was thirsty, a stream was never too far away to dip my filter bottle into. Except for one day of adventure, the singletrack turned out amazing. The Alps are truly a wonderful place to travel and move through the mountains.
My route took me on average over three major mountain passes per day as I made my way through the Dolomites. I began to find more and more joy in the nature of my solo journey, but I also began to cherish the characters I would meet along the way. Perhaps my favorite encounter was meeting a team of four 18-year-old boys for a birthday party on XC bikes. We miraculously arrived at the top of a pass at the same time, climbing from opposite sides. When I passed them, one of the birthday boys had a flat tire.
Being occasional operators, they did not have a pump. I offered mine and we became friends instantly. They insisted that I change my route to descend with them into the valley below. I agreed and we went downstairs. The boys were absolutely shredding with reckless abandon, and I felt it was my duty to keep up with my fully loaded bike, even though I had already been in the saddle for 8 hours that day. We hooted and shouted all the way down, until we stopped for a beer halfway down, singing happy birthday in Italian with complete and utter enthusiasm. We continued down the valley as the crew eventually disbanded and everyone headed towards their respective homes. This interaction was so much fun that it completely recharged me.
This riding style can change the way you feel about your bike. It's incredibly rewarding to get on board and drive for several days in one direction. The people and places along the way are truly what makes it worth it! For me, that's what mountain biking is all about.
I finished my trip with a huge 130 mile day to Milan, stopping for fresh ice cream no less than 5 times. What a journey it has been. Although I love bikepacking with friends, I will always find time in the future for a good solo adventure.
Statistics:
Days: 13
Miles: 533
Elevation gain: 76,929 feet
Bike: Yeti Cycles SB120 LR
