“It looks good. But at least it will be an adventure. Photo: Jessica Wong//Unsplash
Surf travel is dead. This would probably be written on the cover of every surf magazine on sale in every supermarket in town, except surfing print media is also largely dead. You can take these observations and turn them into a web of despair, or you can see them as ashes through which to rise, like a Phoenix, and carve your own path in this Brave New World.
I chose to do the latter. I admit that I'm hardly immune to falling victim to the surfing mentality, it was better ten years ago, especially when I'm riding a scooter through the crowded streets of Bali or trying to paddle in Waikiki (or, really, anywhere in Ala Moana). or the entire South Shore). But I never gave up on the adventure of surfing.
My decision not to give up on surf adventure can mainly be attributed to the fact that surf adventure is very different from surf travel. Surf travel is simply the act of traveling a distance to surf. Definitions of what travel is may vary. For this discussion, I refer to page 407 of the Journal of Sustainable Tourism, specifically the article by Ralf Buckley Surf Tourism and Sustainable Development in the Indo-Pacific Islandswhere Buckley defines surf tourism as “when surfers travel at least 40 kilometers and stay overnight with surfing as the main objective of the trip”.
The adventure of surfing, on the other hand, does not require travel. The Merriam Webster Dictionary defines adventure as a: an enterprise usually involving unknown danger and risks, b: the encounter of risks, or c: an exciting or remarkable experience. I don't believe risk is absolutely necessary, because novelty can be created virtually anywhere.
I compare these definitions in detail because they are important in explaining how surf adventure can be a viable option for surfers whose goal is excitement while surf travel cannot. It is also important to note that where one surfs is irrelevant to how fun, exciting, risky or adventurous a surf trip will be.
I argue that the surfing adventure is still wide open in 2024 as long as one is willing to change their routine, go to less desirable places, travel with different people in addition to other surfers, seek out travel recommendations from places other than surf guides, and to lower the standard of living. his wave expectations when needed (the adventure of surfing can come from things other than the act of surfing itself).
A common complaint about surf trips is that all the places worth visiting have already been explored. Places that once made people dream have been reduced to tourist wastelands: Uluwatu, in Indonesia; Tamarindo, Costa Rica; La Libertad, Salvador. I'm not going to pretend that these places are the same as they once were. Uluwatu is currently undergoing immense destruction. Tamarindo, once a haven for West Coast surfers, is now barely a better surfing destination than Huntington Beach. La Libertad suffers from weekend crowds just like San Onofre.
However, I would like to highlight a trend here. Most of the idyllic and exotic locations coveted by surfers are dreamy for reasons that go beyond perfect waves. The weather is nice, the beaches are white and the food, beer and accommodation are (or were) cheap. However, adventure remains very accessible in less popular locations around the world.
We rarely hear surfers dreaming of scoring a 6/5 and going to Canada for some uncrowded barrels. You rarely watch movies about surfers venturing into strange towns in search of perfect waves. You almost never hear about people camping out in search of a mystical sandbar on the East Coast. For what? Because all of these things – and all of these locations – require work. Work to achieve them, work to stay there, and work to find the easy pleasure of the journey itself. I guess what I'm asking is when people say they want to surf adventure, do they really want adventure or do they want vacation?
Swap the boardshorts for a full wetsuit and the boat trip in the Ments for a boat trip in Alaska and you're off on an adventure. And no, cold water surfing is not “played” just because. the pros did it. It probably won't be for a while. Cold water areas are neither “unknown” nor “unexplored”. They were surfed. They are simply more adventurous.
Cold water surfing has already been popularized by photographers such as Chris Burkhard with photos of surfers cycling on frozen beaches And riding waves backed by snow-capped mountains. One of the reasons cold water spots remain less crowded than spots in Southern California, Puerto Rico, or Hawaii is simply because they require more effort to access. Safety knowledge, proper equipment and friendliness are required when surfing in Alaska, Canada or the Northeast.
Another reason cold water surfing probably won't explode in the same way it does in the tropics is the lack of immediate appeal. Cold water surfing is a Type II pleasure. It's not something weekend warriors or office workers put pictures on their desks to get through on Friday. It's not something families are going to add to their Christmas vacation itinerary (good luck convincing the kids that it's fun to be cold And wet!).
Besides seeking out more challenging places to experience adventure, there are many ways to experience adventure at home. No matter where you surf, you can always change your routine, open your mind to new definitions of novelty, and experience new sensations without boarding a flight.
Cyrus Sutton and Ryan Burch took this idea to the extreme with their 2010 documentary. Happy and broke. Described as “zero-dollar surfari vacationers,” Sutton and Burch embark on a 30- and eight-day trek across San Diego to experience adventure in their own backyard. Their point is clear: you don't need a lot of time, money, or travel to have fun and discover new experiences. You just need an open mind and a willingness to take risks in your projects. Their argument resonated strongly with the public. The film earned a perfect five-star rating from over 400 reviews on The Surf network.
Another way to experience adventure in already explored destinations is to modify your itinerary. Surfing adventure can be surfing adventure, or it can be adventure with surf. Costa Rica, for example, is mostly explored in terms of surf spots. But if the purpose of the journey changes to becoming a certified yoga instructor (Gerry Lopez, one of the surfing greats, loves yogaso it's not a random side quest) And get hot and decisive waves in the south? Or seek excitement by trying new Caribbean dishes on the other coast of the Czech Republic and hope to score a few barrels during your food tour? To see the political situations for yourself and to surfing with people in war-torn places do you read articles every day? Or even simply to brave the museums of coastal Europe between two sessions with your very historically interested parents? NOW it's an adventure.
Another way to experience the adventure of surfing in the 21st century, it is simply to seek it… yourself. It might seem obvious, but surf magazines, tour guides and YouTube channels aren't going to give up on the gems that are out there. You have to search for yourself. The downside of Google Earth is that everything is accessible without going there in person. The positive point of Google Earth is also that everything is accessible without going there in person.
Curious to discover a small cove? See something you've never seen mentioned in your surf book? Discover it without buying a plane ticket. Half the fun (and much of the adventure) of surf travel is in the planning, the wonder, and the romanticization. In the 21st century, you can do all this for free, and always live the adventure afterwards.
Finally, a big part of seeking adventure is lowering your expectations. It doesn't have to be depressing. In fact, it can be incredibly liberating. Ironically, some of my favorite surf trips consisted of little to no surf due to the lack of swell. Exploring new cultures, food, languages and everything else there is to do when the waves flatten can be fun. Ultimately, no one controls the weather, and all you can do is control your mindset.
Personally, lowering my wave expectations has allowed me to make friends floating down rivers in tires in the remote jungle of Indonesia, to burning Yucca leaves in the Baja desert instead of checking Surf line every hour to see if the swell changes and learn to paint with watercolors. The adventure itself had nothing to do with the location, which has all been surfed and visited before. The best part? The waves always come back when you're on an adventure.
