This hilly, liberal northern city California home to some of the world's most iconic attractions, from the Golden Gate Bridge to Alcatraz prison island.
But even though it's home to more billionaires than anywhere else in the US (it's just a half-hour from Silicon Valley), it's surprisingly affordable, with cheap public transportation that makes exploring incredibly easy.
WHERE TO STAY
Queen Anne Hotel
Antique furniture is inserted into every corner of this charming 19th-century Victorian mansion located near Japan City (queenanne.com). Breakfast and afternoon tea (think sherry and homemade biscuits) are included, and most of its 48 rooms (from £150) have baths and wooden four-poster beds. Christmas decor so come in November/December for a festive treat.
Here's our budget travel guide to San Francisco, USA, where you can book the best hotels for under £150 per night
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With its many books, board games and TVs, the lounge bar at this central hotel is designed to entice guests out of bed. That said, the rooms are quirky with pink balloons, red cushions and electronic functions (lights, alarm clock, blinds etc) controlled via iPad. There’s also a gym and a rooftop terrace.
Prices start from £150 with a buffet breakfast at £16 per person citizenm.com/hotel/sanfrancisco.
Cartwright Hotel
This hilly, liberal Northern California city is home to some of the world's most iconic attractions, like the Golden Gate Bridge (above) — bike across it and you might even spot dolphins
Rooms at this central Best Western hotel (bestwestern.com) are a little cramped, but they are clean and comfortable, with powerful showers (from £94). Free tea and coffee are provided on the ground floor, where giant chess and Connect 4s sit on tables next to the fire. The 1913 building overlooks Union Square, so ask for a room at the back if you don't want to be disturbed by the noise of the trams.
Garrett Hotel
With rooms starting at £70 a night, this stylish, no-frills hotel (hotelgarrettsf.com) in front of the American federal building (where Nancy Pelosi (which has a desk) is a steal. Its 121 comfortable, recently renovated rooms are well-designed and have plenty of USB ports and coffee makers. The location is also good, a ten-minute walk from Union Square and close to the Opera House, the subway, and San Francisco's historic streetcars.
WHAT TO SEE AND WHAT TO DO
Boat tour in the bay
The Blue & Gold fleet offers a 60-minute cruise that departs from Pier 39 where sea lions lounge, takes you under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz Island (pictured)
The best way to appreciate San Francisco’s rolling landscape is from the water. The Blue & Gold fleet offers a 60-minute tour with guided commentary. It starts at Pier 39 (where sea lions lounge) and passes under the world’s most photographed bridge, the 1.7-mile-long Golden Gate Bridge. It then circles Alcatraz Island, a penal colony. The strong Pacific current made it impossible for prisoners to escape… although many tried! (blueandgoldfleet.com)
Cycle across the bridge
Feel the vibrations of the Golden Gate Bridge as you pedal across it (unlimitedbiking.com/san-francisco). The 11-mile trail starts at Ghirardelli Square (home to the oldest chocolate factory in the United States) and ends in the pretty town of Sausalito. Stop on the bridge to watch the dolphins. The bikes are yours all day. You can bike back or take the ferry.
Historic cable cars
Take the Powell-Hyde cable car to Lombard Street, pictured here, to experience the world's crookedest street
Buy a £12 day tram pass and ride San Francisco's iconic trams up and down its hills as often as you like. Make sure to take the Powell-Hyde line and get off at Lombard Street so you can ride down (or up) the world's windiest street. Then, head to the Cable Car Museum (free) to marvel at these vintage trams and their mechanics. It's the only transport to run on a cable system instead of an engine (cablecarmuseum.org).
Taxi without driver
San Francisco is one of the few places where self-driving taxis are available. Haile one of these robotic cars (via an app) and head to the hilltop Coit Tower for stunning views of San Francisco. Be warned, though, there’s a six-month waiting list for taxis.
WHERE TO EAT
Z and Y
Head to Z&Y restaurant in Chinatown (pictured) to sample Chef Han’s famous tea-smoked duck
Once you sit down, you'll understand why this no-reservation Chinatown restaurant has a long line (zandyrestaurant.com). Chef Han (who has cooked for presidents) is famous for his tea-smoked duck (£28), but his vegetables are on another level. Order the dried stir-fried green beans, stir-fried Chinese cabbage and honeyed cherry tomatoes and grab a bag for leftovers.
Pizzeria Delfina
Ingredients at this upscale Italian restaurant are locally sourced; the owner even has his own farm. On the menu are pie pizzas and orange-sized meatballs (£16). Order sides of squash and Brussels sprouts (both £11 with a touch of chilli) and wash them down with the restaurant’s Californian Chardonnay, sourced from Sonoma Valley (pizzeriadelfina.com).
Miller & Lux Steakhouse
Steaks aren't cheap at this celebrity chef restaurant (restaurantmillerandlux.com) in the Mission district, but they’re really good. The melt-in-your-mouth 280g filet mignon with bordelaise sauce (£62) is big enough for two, and the creamed kale is a delicious alternative to spinach. Or head to the restaurant’s new stalls on Union Square. Their roast chickens and salads make a perfect, cheaper takeaway.
Scomas
Be sure to visit Scoma's 'pier-to-plate' fish restaurant, seen above, which is a celebrity favourite – Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston have all eaten here
Come in daylight (or sunset) to enjoy the waterfront setting of this pier-to-plate seafood restaurant that's a celebrity favorite—Nicolas Cage, Brad Pitt, and Jennifer Aniston have all eaten here (scomas.com). The steaming mug of clam chowder at £9.50 is enough for lunch, but if you have room, splurge on the Combo Louis salad (loaded with prawns and crab) or the tomato-based fish stew called Lazy Man's Cioppino.
HOW TO GET THERE
America as you like it (americasyoulikeit.com/020 8742 8299) offers tailor-made holidays to the USA. A 7-night B&B stay at the Queen Anne Hotel costs from £1,415 per person (two people sharing), including return flights from London with Virgin Atlantic. More information: sftravel.com; visitcalifornia.com; citypass.com/san-francisco.
