The Baltic States have gained popularity as travel destinations in recent years. Latviasandwiched between Lithuania And Estoniahas preserved its unique language and culture to offer something special to visitors from here and abroad. We explore Riga, a thriving capital in the heart of modern Europe, to find out why it's the perfect summer location for music lovers and travelers.
Having been to Estonia and seen the best of its capital Tallinn on a recent trip, I expected the same from the country's southern neighbor. Latvia has a rich history which saw it gain independence (on several occasions) and finally join the EU 20 years ago in 2004. With a number of international influences visible across the country in its buildings , its customs and its cuisine, the capital Riga has become a cultural hub in the region.
Explore Riga, the Baltic power at the heart of Europe
Riga has a modern airport a short drive from the city center. When flying, it is impossible to miss the vast forests below. The country has natural resources similar to those of Estonia, with a number of inland lakes, extensive nature reserves and a large maritime industry. Positivus Festival himself was initially in one of these picturesque settings, but we'll take a closer look at that later. Today, the festival is very close to the center of Riga, making it the perfect excuse to visit this historic destination.
The contrast architectural styles here give an overview of the rise, fall and rise of Riga. The Gothic spiers of the old churches rub shoulders with the colorful tiled roofs of the old town. A modern, cosmopolitan neighborhood, beyond large green spaces, is home to new international hotels and restaurants, while the highlight for many visitors are the Art Nouveau buildings that make up a third of the city.
Like most cities, Riga has experienced boom periods in the past, when housing was built at a rapid pace. It's a happy coincidence for today's visitors that at one of these earlier times, in the early 20th century, Art Nouveau was the design style of choice. The ornate facades are vividly presented over several floors and the properties feature large windows which allow excellent dispersion of light indoors. Walking the cobblestone streets of an area where the density of such buildings is particularly high, I saw a few film and television crews setting up for historical productions. They brought market stalls, period-appropriate posters and retro-decorated extras, but it's a testament to this untouched neighborhood that the buildings were dressed up for the cameras.
After World War II, Riga was part of the Soviet communist empire. There aren't many visual clues from this troubled period, for obvious reasons, but you can still see a few brutalist structures that have an undeniable nod to Moscow. The most touristy area is the picturesque old town where local food and drinks can be found in the narrow streets and outdoor squares.
Riga seems to be an extremely safe city. Tourists do not have to be constantly on guard and can relax while walking. A popular attraction is a seemingly unassuming building on Jauniela Street, always surrounded by tourist groups. This was the setting for a popular Soviet version of Sherlock Holmes from the 1970s and 1980s. This is widely considered one of the best adaptations of author Sir Conan Doyle's original stories and has left a final legacy in Riga.
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The weather in summer can be hot, so be prepared for that and bring your walking shoes too. There are excellent transport links and cheap taxis, but getting everywhere is much more pleasant on foot.
How the Positivus Festival captured the spirit of Latvia
You can actually make your way to Positivus Festival walk to the Old Town in less than an hour, and that's exactly what many locals do. Established in 2007 as a celebration of music and art by the sea in Salacgrīva, the festival is today one of the biggest events in Latvia. Located on the picturesque island of Lucavsala, nestled near the tranquil waters of the Daugava River, Positivus has blended seamlessly into its urban surroundings while retaining its enchanting connection with nature.
The music here is eclectic, entirely in keeping with the sensitivity of the young audience that presents itself there. Chart-topping artists like The 1975 and Megan thee Stallion have headlined in the past, with emerging artists from across Europe also taking to the stage. The DJs have a few dedicated areas that function like mini clubs, and these always have a good atmosphere, especially if you arrive there early in the day.
Having recovered from the debilitating impact of Covid in 2020, the event is now back bigger than ever. Scheduled headliners Jason Derulo and Offset had excellent sales and the evening performances were well-filled.
As you may have noticed, I phrased the proposed actions in a reserved manner. Unfortunately, this year's event was impacted by the global IT outage that hit airlines hard in July. On the day of my arrival, as I settled in for my first night in Riga, news was circulating that banks, online marketplaces and – crucially for this part of my story – airline systems were crashed due to a faulty software update. Everything was fine in Riga, but Offset and his compatriots Nothing But Thieves couldn't come here for their appearances. In other places this could have caused major problems, but in a collaborative effort, something I had seen a lot of here before, everyone came together to come up with a great alternative.
A popular local artist was moved to the main stage and performed upbeat hip-hop hits to an energetic crowd who loved every second of it. Say what you like about Jason Derulo, but the American also stepped up and delivered an extended set making the most of his vast repertoire. How he managed this, given the frenetic routines and mind-numbing choreography he and his troupe must memorize, is a mystery… but it worked!
As Riga and Positivus reminded me, the show must go on, and it's a testament to the Latvian spirit that my weekend here was one of the best short stays I've had.
About the author
Cassam Looch has been working in the travel industry for over a decade. An expert on filming locations and filming destinations, Cassam is also a keen advocate of the many unique things to do in his hometown of London. With over 50 countries visited (so far), Cassam also has a great view of the rest of the world.
