Exploring Bhutan’s cultural heritage through its arts

An intoxicating scent fills the air. I detect spices – cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg – but there is also that unmistakable mountain scent of fresh earth, pine and wildflowers. In the small, light-filled room, a rattling machine turns balls of plum-colored dough into spirals of sweet incense.

Half a dozen men and women sit on the floor, each busy with a different task: straightening the coils, measuring and carefully cutting the incense sticks. The trays of these are taken to the attic where they will air dry for several days and then be packaged, ready for sale. I'm at Nado Poi Zokhang in Thimphu, the oldest manufacturer of handcrafted incense sticks in Bhutan. “My father Nado started this business almost 50 years ago, making incense powders and sticks,” explains Chimi Pelmo, who with his sister is the managing partner of the family business.

What makes Nado incense special is the 350-year-old recipe they use that strictly adheres to ancient Buddhist scriptures. “Besides sandalwood, juniper, spices, medicinal herbs and various tree barks, we also use rhododendron shrubs specially collected for us by high-altitude yak herders,” adds Pelmo. The company makes two types of incense, one for everyday use (in different qualities) and a ceremonial incense that uses up to 108 ingredients. Incense is sold throughout Bhutan and exported to China, Japan, Singapore, etc. It is patronized by the royal family of Bhutan and is also available online. From a two-person business in his father's day to around 20 employees today, Pelmo has grown his business. “I want to keep this tradition alive,” she says as I say goodbye.

This is a sentiment shared by many Bhutanese I met during my trip. At the Jungshi Handmade Paper Factory in Thimphu, I get a glimpse of the painstaking process of making paper. The bark of the Daphne shrub is soaked in water for 12 hours and cooked for another four hours. After being washed under running water, a group of women sorts and cleans the fiber by hand. It is then ground into a pulp and mixed with water and starch. Thin layers of pulp are then removed manually using a bamboo sieve and stacked on a bed of paper. These are compressed and dried individually to obtain a beautiful handmade paper. Jungshi is the only factory of its kind in Thimphu; here you can buy a range of handmade paper products like journals, greeting cards, envelopes, bookmarks and much more.

The government of Bhutan also plays an active role in preserving and promoting traditional crafts. Established in 1971, the National Institute of Zorig Chusum offers courses ranging from one to six years in the 13 traditional arts and crafts of Bhutan (collectively known as Zorig chusum). These range from yigzo(calligraphy) and dheyzo (paper manufacturing) lhazo (paint), tshemzo (needlework), and Patras (Wood carving).

I watch Karma, 26, precisely hammer and chisel the wooden mask he is working on. Once ready, it will be painted and used in sacred masked dances. Elsewhere, groups of young girls work on embroidery or intricate tailoring. I wander around the painting room where young boys and girls produce everything from landscapes to thangka-style religious paintings. The institute is open to visitors and you can even buy students' works at a fair price in the exhibition hall. Many of these traditional products are commonly used in Bhutanese religious practice. For a population of 7,00,000, Bhutan has more than 5,000 temples and monasteries, without forgetting that each family has a room or altar space in its home. It is common to burn incense sticks morning and evening to make offerings and get rid of negative energies. Similarly, masked or chham dances are an integral part of the tshechu or annual festivals of Bhutan. Buddhist monks and lay people wear intricately carved and painted masks for these sacred performances that not only teach lessons about life and morality, but also aim to purify the soul. Despite a calendar of more than 150 festivals throughout the year, my visit coincided with not even one of them. However, I did get a glimpse of the masked pageantry during the evening ritual of Amankora Thimphu – a 30-minute medley of various dance forms, joenpalegso (welcome song and dance supposed to bring luck) to Drainage camel (a sword dance representing the removal of obstacles and illusions from the path of Dharma). The rain-washed patio and crackling bonfire provide the perfect backdrop for dancing accompanied by drums, cymbals, flutes and rhythmic singing.

Beyond religious activities, zorig chusum also find their place in the daily life of the Bhutanese, notably by weaving to make the national costume – the gho worn by men and the kira by women. Everywhere I go in Bhutan, I see men, women and children proudly wearing these eye-catching, colorful and gracefully draped traditional clothes. At Royal Bhutan Textile Academy Museum in Thimphu, a permanent exhibition presents the rich history and textile heritage of the country. I'm speechless at the collection of royal robes, of course, but what catches my attention is the extent of regional variations in traditional outfits. Other museums offering a deeper insight into Bhutan's cultural traditions include the National Museum of Bhutan in Paro (which is full of historical objects) and the Popular Heritage Museum in Thimphu. The latter is housed in a restored 150-year-old three-story mud house and showcases rural Bhutanese life through household and agricultural amenities in a pastoral setting. But unlike many other countries, traditional culture is not limited to Bhutan's museums. It's all around you: in the incense stick you light on a temple altar, in the hand-woven scarf you buy at the local craft market, and in the decorative sculptures and paintings on wood that you see on the facades of buildings.

Planning a trip to Bhutan

Get there

Drukair offers direct flights to Paro from Kolkata, New Delhi, Guwahati, Gaya and Bagdogra.

Entry requirements

Indians need an entry permit to visit Bhutan, which can be obtained either on arrival or in advance by applying online. Bhutan also charges a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF), which is used for the economic, social and cultural development of the country. For Indian visitors, SDF costs 1,200 ngultrum (INR 1,199.45) per person per night.

Staying in Bhutan

A man has five luxurious lodges in central and western Bhutan, in Thimphu, Paro, Punakha, Gangtey and Bumthang. Each lodge is set in a picturesque wooded setting and features local architecture, such as Amankora Thimphu, which is built in the style of a traditional dzong fortress. All offer stunning views, including Amankora Paro. Suites feature Aman's classic aesthetic, minimalist and decorated in tones of honey and cinnamon, with king-size beds, terrazzo-covered bathtubs, and local touches like a bukhari. Doubles from INR 1,40,000

Related: A journey of introspection to Amankora Paro, Bhutan

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

— Do Indians need a passport to visit Bhutan?
Indian nationals intending to travel to Bhutan must carry one of two valid travel documents: a valid Indian passport with a minimum validity of six months; and/or a Voter Identity Card, issued by the Election Commission of India, along with recent passport size photographs.

— Is the Bhutan visa free for Indians?
No, Indian citizens do not require a visa to enter Bhutan for tourism purposes.

— What are the traditional arts and crafts of Bhutan?
Carpentry, masonry, carving, painting, carving, foundry, blacksmithing, goldsmithing, bamboo work, weaving, embroidery, woodturning and papermaking. are among the most famous traditional professions in the country. These are called the 13 arts of Bhutan.

— What is Bhutanese architecture called?
Religious architecture in Bhutan includes Goemba (Monasteries), Lhakhang (Temples) and various types of Chortens (stupas).

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