Back when chiefs Not having enjoyed the reputation and fame that honors them today, the young Virgilio Martinez — now a well-known name in the culinary world with multiple awards to his name — had a dream: to put Peruvian cuisine on the world map.
It was an unexpected choice, knowing that he had already secured a place at the state university to study law. It was almost unacceptable to his lawyer father, who saw him following in his footsteps and continuing the legacy. “At the time, there were no culinary schools in Peru. Peruvian cuisine had no recognition in the world. Telling your parents that you wanted to become a Peruvian chef was like telling them that you wanted to clean toilets. It was not considered a meaningful profession that could bring you success,” he said. The Indian Express.
As you can see, his father's disapproval didn't stop him. Chef Martinez also owes credit to his mother, an artist by profession, who understood that cooking was his way of expressing his art and who played a decisive role in his training. “Growing up, I was everywhere and I had problems with stability or concentration. My mother noticed it and pushed me to paint, work with ceramics and get involved in art,” he said, adding that aesthetics play a very important role in his work. “Before I set the plates, I look for a specific ceramic or plate. And if I can't find it, I have it made. Sometimes we have to wait for the plates to arrive, but we decide,” he added.
During his first visit to India in late May, facilitated by Culinary Culture and Masters of Marriott Bonvoy in partnership with American Express, Chef Martinez hosted two dinners at Koishii, The St. Regis BombayAt a whopping Rs 50,000 per person, he brought Maximum City a taste of Central, his flagship restaurant that bagged the coveted top spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 list. Diners were served an eight-course menu, featuring ingredients as intriguing as codium (a marine green algae), macambo (a nutrient-rich superfood consumed by indigenous communities in the Amazon rainforest), olluco (a root vegetable native to the Andean regions of South America) and copoazú (a tropical fruit native to the Amazon), among others.
In July, Chef Martinez returned to Mumbai, as part of a consortium of chefs, to create an all-vegetarian menu for Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant’s wedding. A photo of the menu, which went viral on social media, showcased eight unique dishes created by him and his team. The menu included options such as “Avocado Emulsion and Peruvian Corn,” “Cashew Roll with Mountain Chimichurri and Fresh Cheese,” “Extreme Altitude Seeds with Smoked Tomato,” and “Date and Lentil Triangles with Pistachio Tiger Milk.”
Asked about awards and their relevance, he quickly shared that his plan was not to be number one or appear on magazine covers or on television, adding that it would be superficial “because there's nothing left to do once you get there,” he said.
Chef Martinez on the streets of Mumbai, tasting and exploring flavors (Photo credit: Culinary Culture)
“I dreamed of having a restaurant where I could cook for people and make my guests happy,” he shared, adding that in a restaurant, you can express several things. “Of course, we want to please our customers, but we also strive to create new ideas, a philosophy, a culture of cuisine and represent our country and the entire continent.”
But how do you find the motivation to keep going? “Over time, I started to develop new motivations. At first, my motivation was to cook or travel. Now it’s more than that. It’s about getting to know different cultures, different people and, of course, representing my country. We need motivation and creativity every day, because I need a reason to wake up and be creative.” In the future, he plans to open “a museum in Central to show our work.”
At a meet-and-greet session at Koishii, food journalists and chefs were able to chat with Martinez and watch his Netflix documentary “Virgilio” (not available in Asia), which provided insight into his life and the culinary philosophy he applies at Central. The restaurant, known for its contemporary interpretation of Peruvian cuisine, also serves as his research center, where he examines and incorporates indigenous ingredients into his menu. Guided by the philosophy of “culinary ecosystems,” the restaurant also has a research arm, Mater Iniciativa.
“Our research showed us that in Peru we can cook at different altitudes, so we conceptualized a menu with a variety of dishes from different altitudes and ecosystems, highlighting the biodiversity of the region,” he explained, adding that diners in India were able to experience “Peruvian nature and American biodiversity combined with other dishes prepared with ingredients that we found in India. We are impressed by the way you use lentils.”
Comparing India and Peru, Chef Martinez, who also visited the Mumbai spice market, noted that both countries pride themselves on their ingredients and flavors. “I am surprised by the diversity of ingredients you have and the strong sense of culinary culture that is evident on the street. Yes, it is noisy because a lot of information is exchanged, but in the end, you see this balance and harmony, which you don’t see in many places in the world,” he said.
When asked why it took him so long to come, he explained that he was not ready or mature enough to experience India the way he did on this trip. “We have to cook, which brings with it the stress that we are used to, but I would not have been able to see the city, its people, its culture and its ingredients,” he said, adding, “I am looking forward to coming back and staying for more than two weeks to really experience the many regional cuisines of India.”
