A Seward Highway road trip promises epic adventures

Anchorage visitors who venture beyond the city limits will find a scenic escape via the Seward Highway, a spectacular route with a surprising number of roadside detours that culminates in a historic port town.

This renowned 125-mile route extends south from Anchorage to the town of Seward. The first part follows a narrow finger of water called Turnagain Arm. This historic waterway is named after British explorer Captain James Cook, who had to “turn back” when his ship reached a dead end.

Along the way, the highway is framed by the spectacular Chugach and Kenai Mountains. Ancient glaciers peek through lush summer greenery. Passing small communities, rustic truck stops, and pristine alpine lakes, the highway ends in Seward, on the shore of Resurrection Bay.

The time-strapped traveler could get to Seward and back in a long full day, traveling more than five hours alone. But spending the night in Seward (or elsewhere) offers a nicer, quieter experience, and allows you to appreciate the landscape and character of Alaska, as well as the history, recreation, and restaurants offered along the way. course.

Belt wood

About 45 minutes south of Anchorage, Girdwood is a laid-back ski resort that moved inland a few miles off the Seward Highway after the 1964 Good Friday earthquake.

For Alaskans and visitors, Girdwood is a recreation mecca, with a charming collection of memorable restaurants, art galleries, ski chalets and condos. The winter slopes and ski lifts are transformed to accommodate downhill mountain biking in summer. Paved paths crisscross the town, offering the opportunity to admire the scenery during a stroll.

For hikers, the friendly Winner Creek Trail begins just behind the picturesque Alyeska Hotel. For a challenge, tackle the southern end of the 21-mile Crow Pass Trail, which connects Girdwood to the outskirts of Eagle River, north of Anchorage. The first few miles from the Girdwood end of the trail wind upwards, with sweeping views of glaciers, jagged peaks, and remnants of long-standing gold mining efforts.

Girdwood's dining options are incredibly plentiful. Start with a local icon, The Bake Shop, open as of post time Wednesday through Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. A morning staple for over 40 years, The Bake Shop offers homemade dishes like sourdough pancakes and sweet rolls. For lunch, the shop offers homemade soups and sandwiches on fresh bread.

For a special dining experience, try the Jack Sprat. Its regional cuisine with an Alaskan twist is truly special, showcasing fresh seasonal produce and locally sourced proteins like halibut. The chalet's tall windows offer a romantic view of the mountainside. Check the restaurant's website for hours.

Nearby, the trusty Double Musky Inn is a tucked-away steakhouse known for its colorful French Quarter decor, world-class wine cellar, and Creole classics with an Alaskan twist. Its lively elegance has delighted locals and tourists for decades. You will have to wait several nights, but it will be worth it.

For a fun, relaxed atmosphere, stop by Girdwood Brewing Co. With indoor tables and outdoor seating around gas-fired fire pits, sip pints or smaller tasting glasses while ordering from one or more local food trucks which rotate on the spot; the truck schedule is updated on the brewery website. They also sell trendy hoodies, trucker hats, and art stickers to remember your soapy Girdwood detour.

Portage

Like Girdwood, Portage once stood along the Seward Highway, but after the 1964 earthquake, Portage disappeared, leaving today only the remains of decrepit cabins overgrown by aggressive brush. In Portage's place, visitors today will find the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center (Mile 79 Seward Highway), a sprawling 200-acre sanctuary that provides large enclosures for orphaned and rehabilitating animals.

Observe the animals while driving, walking the 1.5-mile loop surrounding the center, or by booking a tour with one of the staff naturalists. Opening hours are 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. from May 1 to September 15. Check the website for overtime hours.

Whiter

A turn east in Portage onto Portage Valley Road brings motorists to the Begich, the Boggs Visitor Center and, beyond, to the town at the end of the road in Whittier.

As of this writing, the Begich Visitor Center, Boggs (Portage Lake Loop) is scheduled to open on May 26, 2024. It is located approximately 5 miles east of the Seward Highway, a highway flat, pretty and fast. Named for U.S. Representatives Nick Begich and Hale Boggs, whose Alaska flight went missing in 1972, the center is built on the edge of a lake on the moraine left by the receding Portage Glacier. The glacier is visible via boat tours on its facade. The center itself provides scientific educational opportunities for adults and children.

Continue further and travelers will have a truly different experience thanks to the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel. The 2.5-mile-long, one-way toll road tunnel is a dark, brooding viaduct through formidable mountains. The longest in North America, it was originally a railroad tunnel connecting the west side of Turnagain Arm to the military port city of Whittier. Find tunnel times online to plan your visit accordingly.

Whittier exists as a critical deep-water port. In this unusual community, most residents live in one of two large buildings due to the lack of housing and buildable land. For activities, there are glacier viewing boats, hiking and fishing. The town's only hotel, the charming Inn at Whittier, was closed in early 2024 after a flood; updates on reopening will be posted on their website. Camping and RV options also exist.

The one-way toll tunnel is strange enough to warrant an hour's detour. If you have time, visit the small but surprisingly comprehensive Prince William Sound Museum. An impressive number of exhibits fill its comfortable space, capturing the history of Whittier.

Seward

Arriving in Seward is a real spectacle. When the highway finally ends, the view opens up to this special place surrounded by the spectacular mountains that surround Resurrection Bay. Seward is home to a kind community with a hodgepodge economy built on fishing outfits, kayaking businesses, sightseeing tours, shops, restaurants and bars, and a beautiful marina where visitors can stroll on the docks. About 2,625 people live here year-round, and summer cruise ships can carry thousands of visitors per day.

Seward highlights include the Alaska SeaLife Center, a hands-on aquarium and functioning science center that offers opportunities to watch diving puffins and sea lions swimming, get an up-close look at octopuses, and learn about them about the special place that is Resurrection Bay.

From the SeaLife Center, a leisurely stroll down Fourth Avenue offers a serene sense of Seward's old-time frontier culture, with its Old West storefronts, historic murals, steepled churches, memorial plaques and monuments historical. A paved trail from the SeaLife Center along the waterfront to the harbor is a pleasant way to enjoy the mountain scenery.

Seward is full of hotels and motels, house rentals, inn beds, camping and RV options for those staying overnight.

Beyond the roads, day cruises in Kenai Fjords National Park are a popular way to soak up the beautiful waters of Resurrection Bay. Otters, seals, puffins, orcas, and various migratory whales can all make appearances on these charters, some of which include stops on the island for meals.

To see a glacier on foot, allow a few hours for a stop at the Glacier exit. Located just inside Kenai Fjords National Park, this glacier on the edge of the Harding Icefield recedes every year, much to the chagrin of many fans. But a moderately graded walking trail leads to lookouts where the glacier is still visible and can be photographed.

Seward is synonymous with fishing, and there are many half- or full-day charters available to fish for halibut, salmon, or both. Charters usually provide all fishing equipment, and in town there are options to fillet and freeze fish for shipping after your excursion ends. These trips leave early and return late and provide the complete Alaska experience. Play your cards right and you'll enjoy the scenery of a wildlife viewing trip while returning home with a freezer-worthy fish to commemorate your unique and unforgettable Alaska vacation long after it's over.