I have always loved Canada. I've visited almost every province, so I know it's a beautiful country, but it's never been on my dream travel list. However, after a recent Circumnavigation of Newfoundland navigate with Adventure Canadaa small, family-run expedition cruise operator, this northeastern island has become one of my all-time favorite destinations.
As Canada's newest province, having only joined confederation in 1949, Newfoundland retains much of its independent identity. Here, locals speak with accents that differ delightfully from those in the rest of Canada. The food culture is unique, relying heavily on cod (and its tongue, a popular cut), which was densely fished here and which continued to feed much of Europe and the Caribbean between the 16th and 19th centuries. century. And they even have their own original time zone, 30 minutes ahead of other Eastern Canadian provinces.
Because much of Newfoundland is difficult, if not impossible, to reach by car, a cruise ship tour is the perfect way to explore this isolated region. In fact, I met many Canadians who had gone on this cruise precisely because they had been unable to access some of the more remote destinations on our itinerary on previous island-hopping trips. Remote ports are a perfect example. For decades, Canada has tried to convince remote communities in “isolated ports” (tiny coastal towns in very hard-to-reach locations) to relocate precisely because their extreme remoteness makes serving them very expensive.
During this 10-day circumnavigation, we visited two such isolated communities, including François (pronounced “Fran-Sway”), where 42 of its 53 residents over the age of 18 voted in 2021 to stay put. The alternative they rejected would have been to accept up to $270,000 per family of three to move to a less distant destination. Here I joined a handful of other passengers and our guide for a steep, inclined hike over roots and rocks to the top of a hill with 360-degree views of hills, cliffs, the fjords and the Bay of François as it flowed into the Atlantic. .
After sunset, we set off for a Newfoundland “kitchen party,” a traditional song-filled gathering that usually begins in someone’s kitchen. At the party, the community served a generous spread of homemade fish and sheep, a classic salted fish recipe made with potatoes and hard bread and topped with “scruncheons” (crispy pork). The food was served with a wholesome side of live music and merriment and, as we ate, laughed and danced the night away, the locals were happy to share their stories, including how life works in such an isolated enclave. For example, orders for food and household goods are placed once a week at the small town store, and when an item cannot be purchased directly, it can often be ordered and shipped by ferry from other small islands. Because Amazon sells just about everything and doesn't charge extra for shipping to isolated communities, it's also becoming increasingly popular here, and several people have described Amazon boxes piling up in the office. local post.
Our subsequent visit to Little Bay Island was quite the opposite experience, as the recent vote to leave left the community with only two full-time residents. Unlike François, this isolated community of around 60 people accepted the government's relocation program. In 2019, all but one of the couples packed up their belongings and took the last ferry to start their next chapter in a less remote part of Canada. Even though there are no longer any state-funded services like a post office (or state-provided electricity and water) and various houses and structures sit empty and abandoned, many homes are well maintained and used as summer cottages. Homeowners get by with solar panels, generators, wells, septic tanks and the support they offer each other. In early June, we saw many fair-weather residents repairing their roofs and installing solar panels while children were displaying the socks their grandmothers had knitted, hoping to sell them to visitors.
In a nod to the area's rich fishing heritage, decks and front yards were decorated with crab traps repurposed into flower planters, and walkways were lined with wooden lobster traps that now hold small lanterns.
My guide here was the charming Tony Oxford, a native of Little Bay Island, who has worn many hats over the years and throughout his travels: fisherman, educator, small town mayor, storyteller, musician. Oxford delighted us each morning of the voyage by playing his harmonica over the ship's loudspeaker, which was broadcast into our rooms and public areas. Instead of setting an alarm, each morning I woke up singing a new song he had written about the adventures of the previous and upcoming days. During the nightly briefings, Oxford taught us how Newfoundlanders greet each other (like the call and response “What are you doing?” “That's it.”). He also shared colloquial phrases such as “If you burn your ass, you'll have to sit on your blisters,” referring to the need to pay the consequences for inappropriate behavior.
Although much of the appeal of this trip was visiting places I had never heard of (like Red Bay, Labrador, a former center of the whaling industry, and the First Nations community Nations of Miawpukek, who welcomed us with a ceremony), other highlights were sites that were better known and easier to access by boat, Zodiac boat and bus. L'Anse Aux Meadows, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the northern tip of Newfoundland, is the only authenticated Norse settlement in North America.
Both of Newfoundland's national parks were on this itinerary, and while Terra Nova National Park had some excellent hiking, it was Gros Morne National Park that left me speechless. In Gros Morne, we spent the first day hiking along dizzying trails where wildflower-studded cliffs plunged into the ocean. The next day, park staff gave us private tours of the rust-colored rock landscape in a section of the park where the theory of plate tectonics was established. The environment here is so similar to that of Mars that NASA scientists and other researchers carry out tests related to space exploration.
Adventure Canada is known for focusing on adventure and staffing its staff with geologists, ornithologists, historians and other experts who give fascinating lectures on board and lead trips on land. The resident marine biologist, for example, pointed out and explained the behavior of the sperm whales, white-beaked dolphins, and other marine life that danced in the waters surrounding our ship.
Adventure Canada is also known for its intimate trips; his ship, the Oceanic effort, is small and easy to navigate. There are several lounges, a library, a small gym, and a yoga area where staff give free classes many mornings. Although there is no full spa, a massage therapist is present throughout the trip and I can personally vouch for the high quality of treatments. Rooms are modest but comfortable, and dining offerings are varied, including many options for vegetarians and vegans. Adventure Canada highlights locally sourced foods whenever possible, including partridge jam, moose stew, and freshly caught lobsters purchased from a local fisherman during our stop at Little Bay Island. With only 198 guests at capacity, making friends was easy simply because I kept meeting the same lovely people over and over again.
Of the four crossings I made with Adventure Canada (Scotland, Greenland to wild Labrador, Sable Island and Newfoundland), the Circumnavigation of Newfoundland was, by far, my favorite. I'm even considering doing it again, only next time in the fall, when the brilliant wildflowers are replaced by fiery fall foliage. Adventure Canada runs early summer and fall departures each year, and no matter when you go, you'll be glad you did.
To reserve: “Ocean Endeavour” will next tour Newfoundland between October 1 and 12, 2025. Prices for 10 day shipping from $6,995 per person, double occupancy. Several single rooms at no extra cost are also offered, as well as discounts for travelers under 30 years old.