The population of Maleku is only around 650 people. Photo / Lebo Tiède
Brett Atkinson joins Intrepid Travel for a week-long guided trip to three different sites.native communities in Costa Rica
On a quiet Saturday morning in downtown San Jose, the laid-back capital of Costa Rica, I experienced a welcome that was both surprising and familiar. On behalf of the indigenous communities of this Central American country, Intrepid Travel local guide Pedro Flores presents a Welcome to Country. This is a formal recognition undoubtedly inspired by the work of Intrepid. Australian roots, but also recognition of the history, importance and growing respect for the diverse indigenous groups scattered across Costa Rica.
My first understanding of Costa Rica's indigenous communities came a day earlier at the National Museum in San José, an imposing castellated structure that was the country's military barracks until the army's abolition in 1949. A simple map shows the contemporary extent of Costa Rica's indigenous groups, today just a few small shaded areas amid the country's more homogeneous population who are largely descended from Spanish settlers arrived from the 16th century. Less than 2 percent of Costa Rica's population now identifies as indigenous, with eight major tribal groups living in 24 distinct autonomous territories across the country. The loss of their language, customs and traditional lands poses an ongoing challenge, but change is slowly emerging through growing awareness of their struggle.
A Saturday morning visit to a nearby combination of gallery and artists The co-op is ideal preparation before embarking on a week-long trip that includes visits to three different indigenous communities. Opened in 2010, Chietón Morén – named after an indigenous Boruca word meaning “fair trade” – represents traditional artisans from across the country. Works from all of Costa Rica's indigenous groups – including the wooden Boruca masks and bold ceramic pottery of the Chorotega of Costa Rica's remote Nicoya Peninsula – are sold at no markup, and volunteer guide Chietón Morén , Ruth Guzmán, confirms that many indigenous artisans come to the city. to deal directly with the organization known as “Un Buen Trato” in Spanish.
Learn more: The Best Things to Do on a Family Vacation in Colombia
Leaving San Jose is a mountain journey through misty cloud forest roads to Centro Etnoturístico El Descanso, part of an indigenous Bröran village community on the banks of the Térraba River. Waking up in simple homestay cottages after arriving at nightfall, our group is guided around the leafy hamlet by chief Jeffrey Villanueva, proud of the lands his clan has occupied for “thousands of years” since its southwestward migration across the Central American land bridge. from the Caribbean coast of Panama. On a centuries-old grindstone, Villanueva prepares freshly roasted cocoa beans for an energizing round of hot chocolate, and explains that in ancient times, the now humble beans were worth more than gold and chocolate was revered as the elixir of the gods. Equally venerable is the annual Bröran de Sögra Cuomgrá festival, held in late December and hosted by El Danza del Toro y La Mula (the Dance of the Bull and the Mule), a stylized depiction of the elemental battle between the Mule (the Bröran people) , and Taurus (the arrival of the Spaniards). In another nearby village of Bröran, we participate in a traditional mask-making workshop, helping to make ornate masks from teak and balsa wood that are easier to render. Intricately crafted, some depicting jaguars and toucans, and finished in bright colors, Bröran masks are a highlight of the annual December festival, a clash between good and evil.
Celebrate a similar event festival dance Where the Spanish settlers were harangued and harassed by the “los diablitos” (“little devils”) are the Boruca people, centered in a verdant valley 40 minutes' drive south on winding roads over an escarpment spectacular. Borucan mask making is also famous, but we are here to learn about their textile making tradition. Using natural products including turmeric and herbs from the village gardens, shades effortlessly spanning the Pantone color spectrum – including purple, indigo and orange – are all made hardwearing with a drizzle of berry juice. lime before being used to dye natural yarns. Meticulously crafted on a hand loom, the resulting textiles are as authentic and vibrant as Boruca's colorful hand-painted masks.
Our final stop is at Palenque Margarita, a Maleku community and one of three indigenous Maleku palenques (villages) clustered around the town of Guatuso, north of the dormant Arenal volcanic cone. Following historical tragedies, including forced slavery by Nicaraguan rubber barons in the late 19th century, the population of the Maleku dropped precipitously to around 250 people, and the community's current population is only approximately 650 people, making the Maleku the smallest of Costa Rica's indigenous groups.
Despite their numbers, they managed to protect their culture, and Palenque Margarita chief Jaquima confirms that the Maleku language is now taught at the local village school. He is known as Elias Castro in Spanish, but prefers his nickname Maleku, which means “one who takes care of nature” in his indigenous language. After a crash course in daily Maleku – “Capi Capi” combined with a light tap on the shoulder from a friend translates to “Hello” – Jaquima introduces her nephew, Antu Tijinin (aka Adrian). In gentle English and tinged with subtle humor, we learn more about one of Costa Rica's most resilient indigenous cultures.
Drums stretched with iguana skin are still used to communicate between Palenque Margarita, Palenque Tonjibe and Palenque El Sol – “It's our cell phone” explains Antu Tijinin – and thin painted tubes filled with a handful of gravel prove to be Maleku's secret weapon for stress relief. Known as palos de lluvia (rain sticks), these simple but ingenious devices perfectly reproduce the sound of gentle rain. “That’s how I like to relax,” confirms Antu Tijinin.
He is also a trained nurse, and on a leisurely walk to the Palenque Margarita reforestation project, Antu Tijinin explains that he aims to become a doctor in the community. In the shady forest, part of Maleku's total 3,000 ha landholding, Jaquima once again takes the lead, guiding us individually to plant delicate seedlings of endangered trees and further consolidate a vital project first launched in 1988.
Increase avifauna – including colorful toucans – and the recent discovery of puma footprints in the leaf-covered forest floor both speak to the continued resilience of the Maleku in this new century.
CONTROL LIST
COSTA RICA
GETTING THERE
Fly with Air New Zealand from Auckland to Houston and continue with United Airlines to the Costa Rican capital of San Jose.
DETAILS
Intrepid offers several different Costa Rica itineraries, ranging from nine days to 15 days, and costing around $1,900 to $2,500 per person. Their Premium Costa Rica Experience (nine days, approximately $5,700) includes superior lodging options and the companionship of Intrepid's most experienced and highest-rated local guides. As the world's largest B Corp travel organization, every Intrepid departure is offset toward carbon neutrality.
intrepidtravel.com/nz/costa-rica
