I'll be honest with you; Dubai has always seemed to me to be a playground for the wealthy – a destination for those who prefer stretch limousines and yacht parties to culture and good food. But don't let Netflix Dubai Bling to cheat you. Yes there is that side of Dubai, but the city is much more.
Where to dine and drink
While Instagram-famous restaurants are full of celebrity chefs, Dubai's culinary scene is much more eclectic. So, before you head to the bright lights and gold leaf-encrusted menus of Dubai's skyscrapers, I implore you to explore the rich culinary heritage of old Dubai. You can do it solo or choose to join a food walking tour led by an aptly named sister duo. Frying Pan Adventures.
On my first night, I met Farida in Deira, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. Farida was exceptionally passionate about her hometown and eager for me to experience the plethora of restaurants and shops loved by locals in the area. From sumac-stuffed falafels at Sultan Falafel Dubai to tender and juicy chicken shawarma at Syrian restaurant Farooj Al Shami, to Lebanese baklava with butter Al Samadi sweetsI sampled the immigrant-rich culinary scene.
If time does not permit a full tour (but I invite you to take the time), be sure to visit Qwaider Al Nabulsi, a Palestinian-Jordanian restaurant that serves the most delicious kunafa – a sweet cheese dish made with salty Nabulsi cheese and topped with crunchy kataifi noodles. You won't be disappointed by the Iraqi restaurant either Miran Erbilwhich serves the juiciest skewers I've ever eaten, as well as whole fish cooked over an open fire.
For something a little more upscale, but still on the more affordable side of Dubai's dining scene, head to Hawkerbois, a popular supper club turned thriving restaurant in the park. Tom Yum margaritas and Aperol kaffir lime spritzes are served alongside a menu of Southeast Asian dishes including spicy Thai pad kee mao (drunken noodles), Cantonese chicken and shamai truffle dumplings and wok-fried soft-shell crab. Leave room for the mango sticky rice.
Word 32 is another must-visit; a Hong Kong-inspired restaurant paying homage to 32 Mott Street in New York, where the city's first Chinese convenience store opened in 1891. The dim sum is deliciously good, as is the Japanese A5 Wagyu stir-fry. If you're organized enough, pre-order the 42-day applewood-roasted Peking duck.
If Michelin-starred restaurants are your thing, the Michelin guide launched in Dubai in 2022 for the first time, and since then the city has received 11 one-Michelin-star restaurants and three two-star restaurants.
If there's one that should be on your radar, it's 11 Wood fire, an industrial-style restaurant housed in a villa in the residential suburb of Jumeriah. Led by Akmal Anuar, the concept is fire-based (hence the name), focusing on cooking meats, seafood and vegetables over oak, pine, hickory and hay. Highlights include salmon carpaccio with caviar cream and pine oil, grilled leeks with grapefruit and yam, and bone marrow with curry leaves, deconstructed tableside and served sandwiched between slices of fried bread. What it lacks in a liquor license it makes up for with its creative and award-winning drinks menu featuring signature kombuchas, infusions and mocktails.
For a focus on sustainability, go to Teible, nestled on the ground floor of the Jameel Arts Center on Dubai's Jaddaf Beachfront. This bakery-turned-restaurant is so focused on showcasing seasonal and local ingredients that it earned a Michelin green star in 2023, thanks to dishes including savory churros with wagyu coppa and hot honey; zucchini with marinated pears, black lemon emulsion and shio koji; and brown butter ice cream with parsnip chips and marinated pineapple.
For a truly breathtaking experience, head to Dinner by Hestonhoused in one of Dubai's newest hotels, Atlantis The Royal (yes, the Beyoncé hotel). Arriving at the restaurant via an elevator inside a water tube, you pass through a series of doors that open as if by magic, before finding yourself in the cleverly hidden dining room with a mechanical pineapple as an element central, paying homage to the restaurant's signature dessert.
The Dubai outpost of Heston's world-renowned restaurant Blumenthal is helmed by charming executive chef Tom Allen, who has worked with Heston for over 16 years, earning the restaurant a Michelin star just 66 days after its opening. Like Heston's original dinner at London's Mandarin Oriental, the menu aims to bring historic British recipes to life with a Heston twist, including Meat Fruit – a creamy chicken liver parfait coated in tangerine 'zest' and royal beef garnished with beef tongue and smoked anchovies. Leave room for Tipsy Cake, an utterly decadent dessert featuring brioche balls dipped in cognac cream and spit-roasted pineapple.
Where to stay
Dubai is no stranger to luxury hotelsand whether you're looking for a downtown suite or a low-key resort, there's something for everyone.
For those wanting to explore the adults-only party scene that Dubai is famous for, Address Beach Resort, Five Palm Jumeriah And W Dubai Mina Seyahi check all the boxes (bonus points to W for its Attica bar, ideal for aperitifs and unrivaled views of the Dubai cityscape).
Beach lovers will want to head to Jumeriah Al Naseem, a resort within the Madinat Jumeriah complex that features 1 mile of white-sand shoreline, five swimming pools and more than 30 restaurants, bars and shops, including an on-site souk. Dark wood and natural materials set the tone throughout the hotel, while luxurious rooms feature luxurious furnishings, a pleasantly spacious dressing room and a mosaic-tiled shower room with sunken bathtub. The Ocean Deluxe rooms are particularly pleasant, with views of the sea and the imposing Burj al Arab. While the hotel's peaceful private beach is a huge draw, the main pool has become our favorite spot, with attentive staff doing the rounds with fresh fruit skewers, iced towels, and popsicles.
For breakfast, The Palmery offers the world's most luxurious buffet, with everything from an avocado and toast station to protein pancakes. For lunch, head to Mediterranean-inspired Rockfish for grilled octopus over artichoke puree, scallops with truffle shavings, and bowls of lemony vongole. In the evening, cozy up in a dark corner at Blind Tiger, the hotel's speakeasy-style bar offering a collection of delicious alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails. If you like espresso martinis, ask the bar to make their brandy version for you.
For a truly exclusive hideaway, head to One&Only Royal Mirage, a secluded beachfront oasis nestled in 65 acres of landscaped gardens – an awe-inspiring escape from the skyline of neighboring Dubai Marina. The most intimate accommodation here is The Residence, with just 48 rooms and suites, all designed to evoke the magnificence of an Arabian palace.
The piece de resistance is the hotel's spa, which offers everything from full-body aromatherapy massages to specialized advanced Espa facials. Book in advance for the authentic Arabian Royal Hammam treatment, which includes a full body exfoliation, a head-to-toe cleansing ceremony and a relaxing massage on warm marble slabs.
Take advantage of the water taxi service that takes you to the sister property One&Only La Palme. By day, relax poolside in one of the air-conditioned cabanas, which include a waterside terrace, an indoor/outdoor shower, and a fully stocked refrigerator.
For dinner, head to its on-site restaurant 101 Dining room by Yannick Alléno, an elegant haven on stilts serving seafood. Dishes include poached Omani lobster, steamed turbot and whole sea bass in a salt crust to share. In high season, when the weather is a little cooler, the outdoor terrace is the perfect place to listen to live music and admire unparalleled views of the Palm sunset.
What to do
You might think that Dubai is all yacht parties, endless brunches and designer boutiques, but there is so much more to discover and experience.
A good place to start is to immerse yourself in Dubai's history and Emirati culture at Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum Center for Cultural Understanding (SMCCU). Founded in 1998 and located inside a restored wind tower, SMCCU offers a range of programs from cultural meals to heritage tours and visits to local mosques; discovering the nuances of Arabic coffee culture was a highlight.
You also can't visit Dubai without going to the desert, and I recommend an eco-luxury desert safari to do just that. We booked ours through Platinum Heritage Dubai.
This experience, within the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, allows guests to explore the vast expanse of the desert responsibly without smashing the dunes, while allowing you to discover the plethora of flora, fauna and wild animals. We sipped cinnamon tea as the sun set before taking a short camel ride for a luxury private dinner and stargazing.
