We’ve all seen the images on our social media feeds: the white rooftops, dramatic cliffs and deep blue sea of Santorini. What these images don’t show, and which is often the reality of visiting this beloved Cycladic island, are the crowds.
The 47-square-mile island, which has a year-round population of about 15,500, is expecting an incredible 3.4 million visitors this season, including more than a million day-trippers arriving by cruise ship.
I wanted to know if it was still possible to visit Santorini without having to fight my way through dozens of selfie-takers every time I left my hotel. The answer was an unequivocal yes, but only if you follow these golden rules.
Timing is everything
Courtesy of Grace Hotel, Auberge Resorts Collection
Most of us want to visit Greece in the height of summer, when the weather is perfect for beaches and the tourism businesses are in full swing. But if you can travel outside of the European school holidays of May, June or September, you'll find that the place is significantly less crowded. And the weather, while still sunny, won't be stifling.
Location, location, location
Courtesy of Grace Hotel, Auberge Resorts Collection
The town of Oia offers stunning views of Santorini's iconic caldera, but it's also where the majority of the island's hotels are located and where most cruise passengers head to take sunset photos. As a result, the narrow paths that run along Oia's cliffside are often very busy in high season, especially in the evenings.
We were based in the town of Imerovigli, across the bay from Oia, but with equally spectacular views of the caldera. Access is a little less straightforward, as you have to park above the town and walk to most places. This means fewer people and a greater sense of space.
Choose your perch carefully
We stayed at the Grace Hotel, an Auberge Resort Collection — recently voted one of the top 10 resorts in Greece in Travel + LeisureIt won the award for the best hotel in the world. It is located on the edge of the Imerovigli caldera and offers incredible views of the sunset. It is also the lowest property on this part of the cliff, which means you have a direct view of the ocean rather than looking down on guests from other hotels.
You’ll notice that many older Santorini properties feature suites with plunge pools the size of a regular Jacuzzi. Not so at Grace: In addition to a standard-sized shared infinity pool overlooking the ocean, guests of the newly opened Infinity Suites have their own terrace with a private infinity pool. (Note that Grace Hotel doesn’t allow children, but families can book the hotel’s stunning two-bedroom villa.)
Get up
Driving, and especially parking, can be a real pain in Santorini: traffic is often problematic and cars have to make long detours to get around the city centers. On the other hand, walking is a breeze, as the cliffs that border the caldera are lined with paved and passable paths.
Those looking to brag can tackle the 9.5km drive from Fira to Oia. I was travelling with my two children, aged 7 and 11, so we opted for something more manageable: the hike around Skaros Rock, once the site of a Byzantine fortress and now a steep, spectacular but not particularly difficult walk from Imerovigli. Just be sure to set off early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when temperatures are cooler. And take plenty of water!
Take the waves
Santorini isn’t known for its beaches, which is a good thing, as they’re generally not very crowded. We spent a day at Seaside, a beach club on the pleasantly uncrowded black-sand bay of Perivolos. It’s a champagne and sushi place with prices to match, but if you’re looking for a few quiet hours swimming in the ocean and lounging in a cabana, it’s a great option.
For a swim at the opposite end of the luxury spectrum, head to the old fishing village of Ammoudi. Here you’ll find old-fashioned tavernas lining the waterfront, set against dramatic rust-red cliffs (we loved the shrimp and squid at Dimitris Ammoudi taverna). After lunch, take a five-minute walk along the coastal path next to the restaurant until you reach the secret swimming spot opposite the church of Agios Nikolaos.
